As they walk through the familiar streets of the old city, their pace quickens in expectation of soon seeing the beloved shrine. Some of them have made this walk at this hour each morning for as long as they can remember.

Outside the main entrance, they take their shoes off, check them with an attendant and proceed into the complex. At a trough of swiftly running water, they dip their feet to cleanse them. As they pass the flower stalls, some stop to buy garlands of yellow, gold or russet marigolds to carry inside as offerings.

They are transfixed by this first sight of it, by its golden facades and domes. The waters around it are still and glassy in the peaceful early morning silence, and capture an almost perfect reflection. Bowing low to touch their foreheads to the cool marble of the Parkarma, worshippers pay homage and express thanks for the divine grace that has made the visit possible. Then, as is customary, they turn left to go around the entire parkarma, and to stop at shrines on the way, before finally reaching the Harmandir.

Past the Dukh Bhanjani Ber is a raised marble platform which is the Ath Sath Tirath, the Shrine of the Sixty-Eight Holy Places. To bathe near it, some believe, their dreams of visiting the 68 holy places of India will be fulfilled.

Further along the parkarma, around the next corner, is the shrine of Baba Deep Singh, the legendary old warrior who died at this spot. Ever since, pilgrims have paused here to pray, to sprinkle rose petals or to lay fresh garlands in his honor.

Such cameos of valor enliven the rich mosaic of a military tradition that continues to this day. Even now, the names of Sikh martyrs and soldiers who die in battle are inscribed on marble plaques embedded in the floor of the parkarma or on the pillars of the adjoining verandahs. Many Indian army regiments still maintain the tradition of installing commemorative plaques here to honor their war heroes.

As the devout turns the next corner of the parkarma, leading to the Akal takht and the Darshani Deorhi, their excitement builds, for soon they will witness, and possibly join in, the ceremonies that only those who visit the Darbar Sahib at this hour can. These are the rituals that attend the traditional bearing of the Siri Guru Granth Sahib from the Kotha Sahib in the Akal Takht, where it is kept each night, to the Harmandir Sahib, to which it is always returned before five o'clock in the morning.

As the head priest of the Harmandir appears with the Siri Guru Granth Sahib on a cushion on his head, a series of deep, resonant drum beats of the nigara heralds its arrival to the assembled worshippers who, even at this hour, fill the large plaza to capacity. Showering fragrant red, pink and white rose petals, and reciting hymns from the holy scriptures, they make way for the palki's journey to the Harmandir. This passage, though short, sometimes takes up to half an hour while as many worshippers as possible share the honor of carrying it.

The recitation of Asa di War, which had been in progress here since a little after three a.m., had stopped as the Siri Guru Granth Sahib was carried in. Sung always at this predawn hour of the morning, the Asa di War also, like all other compositions recited here, is taken from the Siri Guru Granth Sahib.

After the vaq is read, the singing of the Asa di War continues. As it ends, the entire Sangat and the sewadars of the temple stand up for the ardas, a prayer that is recited at the conclusion of each service. After the ardas, the shabad kirtan, the vocal and musical renditions from the sacred verses, are resumed. The shabad kirtan will be sung throughout the day and late into the evening by a succession of ragis.

Continuing around the Harmandir, on the inner parkarma, the devotees once more bow in the direction of the Siri Guru Granth Sahib, then make their way back over the causeway, through the Darshani Deorhi and onto the main parkarma. As they proceed along the parkarma, towards the stairs by which they had entered, some pause by the Ber Baba Buddha, popularly known as the Tree Shrine. Baba Buddha, the first head priest of the Harmandir Sahib, is said to have sat under this tree as he supervised the construction of the Harmandir Sahib.

Before leaving the Darbar Sahib, once more the early morning worshippers turn to face the Harmandir with folded hands and touch their foreheads to the marble floor of the parkarma in farewell. As they ascend the stairs on the way out, they feel renewed, invigorated and reinforced by the knowledge that the hand of the Divine will guide them through the day.

This colorful flow of visitors continues all day and late into the night: executives in business attire; farmers in their working clothes; women in a myriad variety of dress and personal adornment; and children in clothes specially made for the occasion. All ages are represented, from those who have already made the better part of their journey through life, to newlyweds come to seek blessings for the life that lies ahead - brides in scarlet and gold wedding finery, the grooms in crisply tied pink or red turbans.

People are spread out everywhere. Some are in the Harmandir listening to the shabad kirtan on the ground floor, others are absorbed in the words of the akhand path in the quiet of its upper floors. Some visit the Akal Takht where the swords and personal weapons of Siri Guru Gobind Singh are enshrined.

Many join the line in front of the special kitchen where karah parsad is prepared. They make a contribution of money for this sacramental food and carry it into the Harmandir Sahib. They give it to the attendants stationed at the door specially to receive it. The attendants in turn pass it on with God's blessings to those leaving the sanctum.Some devotees sit in quiet contemplation in the shrine of Baba Atal, built to honor Siri Guru Hargobind's remarkably gifted son who died young, or in the shrine built in Siri Guru Tegh Bahadur's memory. Since voluntary service is the very essence of Sikhism, a continuous stream of visitors makes its way to the Siri Guru Ram Das langar, to help prepare the food that will be served to the thousands who eat there daily.

When the prayers end, the Siri Guru Granth Sahib is reverently closed, wrapped in fresh layers of rich silk and muslin, and ceremoniously carried to the palki waiting outside. As in the morning, so also now, the palki is shouldered by devout Sikhs and taken to the Kotha Sahib where the Siri Guru Granth Sahib will rest for the night.

The massive silver and rosewood doors of the Darshani Deorhi are shut and a group of volunteers inside the Harmandir starts the ritual cleansing of the shrine with milk and water in preparation for the next day. In a few hours, the doors of the Darshani Deorhi will once again be opened to worshippers, and the Harmandir will be ready to receive them so they can welcome the arrival of the Siri Guru Granth Sahib and seek its spiritual guidance for another day.

Seeing the glow of the lamps and their myriad reflections in the pool, hearing the melodic chanting of hymns, tossing handfuls of rose petals before the procession of the Siri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, and feeling the intensity of the love and reverence that attend each ritual, are experiences that will always be remembered.